How to choose face cleanser?

How to choose face cleanser?

Many of our clients are trying professional skin care for the first time. Good quality products are an investment in healthy and beautiful skin. Let’s have a look behind the scenes at the scientific part of it.

If you were to ask me: What is the most important skin care product to start my skin care collection with? I would say: get a good quality face cleanser.

So many women out there are spending lots of money on expensive creams and serums, treatment lotions and masks. But they are forgetting the most important thing, it doesn’t matter how good your cream is if you are applying it on unclean skin. Or if you are using a facial cleanser containing cheap ingredients which can destroy the lipid layer of your skin, and as a result, destroy the water supply system of the skin. And trying to moisturise skin with damaged water supply system, is like trying to paint a veranda when it’s raining. It is not going to be successful.

Trans-epidermal water loss.

The top layer of our skin, the epidermis, normally retains moisture within the skin. It serves as a barrier to prevent excessive evaporation of moisture out of the skin. This layer is composed of epidermal cells which are “glued” together by lipids. Harsh cleansers not only dilute grease, wash away makeup and pollutants, but also dilute lipids, destroying the lipid protection layer. Normal skin water balance is destroyed, epidermis can no longer maintain moisture, so all the moisture evaporates. This is called trans-epidermal water loss. Note that normal soap acts in the same way – diluting lipids, resulting in squeaky clean skin which become dry. The usual result is: dryness, skin tightness, peeling, loss of elasticity and fine wrinkles. It can also make it easier for harmful bacteria to penetrate the skin.

The thing is that these effects are not visible from day one of using them. The effects are gradual. That’s why we usually put the blame on bad moisturising creams, changing them over and over again, spending tonnes of money.

How to choose a proper face cleanser?

When choosing a face cleanser, you must first check the ingredients for the presence of aggressive substances such as surfactants:

Harmful ingredients:

  • Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
  • Sodium Myreth Sulfate (SMS)

Harmful ingredients

These are cheap and rather aggressive surfactants, which are nevertheless very often present in face cleansers in known cosmetic brands. This is due to the fact that manufacturers are cutting back on the use of soft, but more expensive cleaning ingredients, and only adding ingredients that soften the effect of the slightly aggressive surfactants.

Another unwanted ingredient of face cleansers is mineral oil.

It usually comes as an ingredient of cleansing milk or emulsion. It is soft and gentle on skin and because of this, customers are happy with this kind of cleanser. However, mineral oil is a product of oil refining and tends to clog the opening of the sebaceous glands, thus contributing to the appearance of comedones (blackheads) and pimples. That’s why the presence of this component is not desirable.

Desirable components:

Soft surfactant

The following components are considered softer and more desirable in the composition of cleaning agents. Such as:

  • Coco-Betaine
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine
  • Coco-Glucoside
  • Carpylyl / Capryl Glucoside

These mild surfactants that gently cleanse the skin do not break the lipid barrier and therefore do not contribute to the loss of moisture.

Soft surfactant

So what other ingredients can be in a good face cleanser? To cleanse a combination of oily and problem skin, it is desirable to have one of the following acids as one of the ingredients. Because acids help exfoliate dead cells, cleanse the pores, reduce sebum secretion and prevent the formation of blackheads. These acids are:

  • Glycolic acid
  • Salicylic acid
  • Lactic acid

We hope that this information was helpful. Remember, you can always see our friendly staff for a professional, free consultation about skin care products which suit your skin needs.


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